Wednesday 2 November 2011

Egypt and Luxor



Egypt - the ultimate land of the Kings. This was a much anticipated trip that was planned and researched in detail. The beauty of self-researched trips like these, is the amount of effort which you put in behind the extensive research. Prior to this travel, I had as much knowledge about Egypt as a novice would have. The Nile, the Pyramids, Tutenkhamen and that's it.

There were two things that every person should understand here.

First - every piece of stone that one would come across dates back to ages - and you need to start measuring time in thousands ('000s) - unlike in Europe or even in India.
Second thing to understand - the key place in this whole game is not Cairo/Giza. It is this place called Luxor. Why? Pyramids were built in and around Giza by Pharaohs around 5000 years ago. But just like any dynasty politics would be - hatred towards the previous Pharaohs would be the primary goal. Caste and dynasty were the prime differentiators for these people. And as we all know, the Egyptians did not believe in complete death - they believed that these folks moved on - to a different world or wherever. So the principle goal of the new clan/dynasty became 'the eradication' of the previous dynasty's traces. And how can you allow the greatest trace that your predecessor has left behind - to stand right in front of your nose? So the inevitable - removal of all traces by destruction and loot of the pyramids - began to happen. Soon (=a couple of thousand years) Pharaohs began to realise that the act they have been engrossed with, would be the act their own successor would jump into - thus leading to removal of his own traces too. Hence building of these gigantic pyramids came to a halt. Instead, they started to dig their own grave (literally!) somewhere else - inside the rough, rugged terrains of Luxor.

Situated some 500 km from Cairo, Luxor is a valley situated beside the Nile (well, just as any place in Egypt). It is surrounded by rugged terrains all around and the ancient Egyptians chose this place as the perfect mass graveyard. Sacrificing the grand extravaganza around the Pyramids, they started to dig graves/tombs inside man-made caves in those mountains. The extravaganza that was sacrificed was made up inside, with beautiful decorations (+jewels etc. + the mummy). The mummies were accompanied by the mummies of their pet animals too!

Tombs of the Pharaohs across the Luxor valley is popularly known as The Valley of the Kings. It is this place where the Tomb of Tutenkhamun was discovered. Its also a myth that the child prince's tomb was the most decorated one - not true. The truth is that most of the Tombs were already discovered over the past 2000 years and the loots were taken away long back. Tutenkhamun's tomb was located in a very non-obvious place and was left un-discovered and unexplored, over time. The lady Pharaohs were not left behind - their tombs were found at the other side of the valley and is known as the Valley of the Queens.

This picture was taken by me in Luxor atop a hot-air balloon. The mountains/hills at the back is the Valley of the Kings. If you notice carefully, you'd be able to spot the numerous 'holes' on the mountains. Those 'holes' are nothing but the caves that houses the tombs.

Our Journey and Emirates

The tour started with a major hiccup with our Dubai-Cairo flight getting cancelled due to a technical snag. As a result, we had to miss our connecting flight to Luxor. Tickets were re-booked at the Cairo airport. Till date, Emirates hasn't really got back to us regarding any compensation.

Luxor

Our first stop was Luxor and Nefartiti Hotel was our perfect host. The beauty of this hotel lies not in the rooms - it is the rooftop that blows you away. The Nile flowing right in front of you and the Valley of Kings lie before you. The evening view is bound to make the atmosphere nostalgic with you staring right into the tombs where the Pharaohs has been laid for ages. The Valley of the Kings lies only 40% explored mind you - with the majority yet to be un-earthed. Only time would say what secret it has been hiding from humanity.
Even 3500 years of rain, dust and heat could not hither away the brilliance of the colours (1400 BC) on the Pillars of Karnak Temple. The Egyptians used natural mineral colours (hematite for red, lapiz lazuli for blue, yellow ochre for yellow, wollastonite for green) for their paintings



In front of Queen Hatshepsut's temple
Nataraj at Karnak Temple
Sunrise on a hot air balloon





Inflation. Of a hot air balloon. @ 3.50 am








No comments:

Post a Comment